Today we visited Eilean Donan Castle and to the bridge to the Isle of Sky

Eilean Donan Castle

Eilean Donan Castle ( £4,50/per person)

EILEAN DONAN IN NAME

The name Eilean Donan, or Island of Donan, is most robably called after the 6th-century Irish saint, Bishop Donan, who came to Scotland about AD 580. There are several churches dedicated to Donan in the area and it is likely that he, or later Early Christians who followed his teachings, formed a small cell or community on the island during the late 6th or 7th century.

There are, of course, other stories which survive about the island. Perhaps the most attractive teils that it was named from the Gaelic term Cu-Donn meaning otter [brown dog). lt describes the King of the Otters, who was recognised by his fine coat of pure silver and white, and teils of the time when he died and his 'glittering robe of silver' was buried on the Island beneath the foundations of the castle.

6th or 7th century - The name Eilean Donan, 'island of Donan' established

late 13th - Held by Kenneth MacKenzie

After 1362 - The MacRae clan came to Kintail

16th century - Hornwork added

1511 - MacRaes became Constables of the Castle

1539 - Attacked by Donald Gorm MacDonald

1715 - Garrisoned by Government troops but retaken by the Jacobites before the battle of Sheriffmuir

1719 - Castle ruined and abandoned after bombardment by Government frigates

1911 - Bought by John MacRae-Gilstrap

1912 - Project to restore the castle began

1932 - Ccimpleted after 20 years of, reconstruction. Bridge to the island also'finished

1932 - Conchra Trust formai by the MacRae family to care for the castle

AT THE HEART OF A SEA KINGDOM

Though surrounded by salt water, the island, Eilean Donan, has a fresh water spring and has been inhabited since at least the Iron Age, although a castle was probably not bunt here until the early 13th century as a defensive measure against the Vikings. These apparently fearsome people had raided, settled in, and for a time controlled, much of the north of Scotland and the Western Isles between 800 and 1266.

Strategically located where three sea lochs meet - Loch Long, Loch Duich and Loch Alsh- Eilean Donan offered a perfect defensive position. Like many other castles positioned on the shores of the long fingers of sea lochs which break into the western seaboard, Eilean Donan stood guard here over the lands of Kintail. From the mid 13th century, the western Highlands and Islands were the separate `sea kingdom' of the Lords of the Isles, where the sea was the main highway and the power of feuding clan chieftains was counted in men and galleys or 'birlinns'. These clinker-built vessels, with square sails and anything between 12 and 40 oars, were shorter than their close relatives the Viking longships, so were more manoeuvrable. Defended by archers and slingers who sometimes fought from a lighting top' at the masthead, the birlinns, for the next 300 years, defined the nature of warfare and transport.

By the mid 13th century there was certainly a fully fortified castle on Eilean Donan which required a large garrison of men to defend it from both sea and land...

CHANGING FORMS

Eilean Donan Castle has evolved through a number of different fortified forms. In the 1920s the remains of an hon Age fort were still visible on the island but, like the Early Christian cell of St Donanthere is now no trace left. The earliest physical evidence indicates a medieval castle:

The Medieval Castle: 13-14th Century

The form of the first castle is suggested by the remnants of the foundations of towers and a circuit or curtain wall which are still visible. The wall encloses about 3,000 square metres - almost all of the island. The castle was !arger then than at any subsequent time.

The Tower or Keep stood on the island's highest point but there was also a Northern Tower which, with its massive 4.3 metre thick walls, dominated the site. The enclosing circuit wall had smaller towers and sea-gates.

The Second Phase: l5th Century

At about the end of the 14th century the area of the castle was reduced to only 528 square metres; almost five times smaller than its original size.
The reason is unclear but probably related to the size of garrison required to defend it. Now the Tower or Keep became the focus of the
reduced courtyard. lt had four levels and a pitched, slated roof with crow-stepped gables. Around the roof level was a walkway with bartizans or projecting towers.

The Third Phase: 16th-17th Century

In the 16th century a hornwork was added to the east wall. Its main purpose, with its hexagonal bastion, was as a firing platform for the newly introduced cannons. In effect this also made a new entrance and long passage to the inner courtyard.

The castle was surveyed in 1714 by Lewis Petit des Etans, just five years before it was destroyed.
By this time, it had largely fallen into disrepair.

THE B0MBARDMENT

,King James VII (II of England) was deposed in 1689. "Afterwards, his supporters, the Jacobites, made several attempts to put him, his son, and subsequently his grandson, Charles Edward 'the Bonnie Prince', back onto the throne. Their ultimate failure came with the defeat of the Jacobite army at Culloden in 1746 but it was in the third of the famous Jacobite Risings that Eilean Donan played a role.

In the late spring of 1719 the castle was garrisoned for the Jacobites by 46 Spanish soldiers. They established a powder magazine in a low building at the rear. But early an 10th May three Government frigates were ordered to sail into Loch Duich. Whilst the smallest, the Flamborough, lay off, the others, the Worcester [48 guns) and the Enterprise (44 guns), bombarded the castle. Afterwards, Captain Herdman of the Enterprise was sent ashore to accept the garrison's surrender and systematically blow up what remained, including 343 barrels of gunpowder.



THE CASTLE REBUILT

The stark ruins lay neglected for nearly two centuries until they were rebuilt by Major, later Lt Col, John MacRae-Gilstrap and Farquhar MacRae, his skilled clerk of works. Both men dedicated 20 years to the project which soon developed a romance of its own. lt is said that the castle was restored according to a vision seen by Farquhar and that later, when old plans came to light, it was found that every detail was faithful to the original as had been revealecl to him in his dream.
The castle was rebuilt according to the surviving ground plan of earlier phases. The north wall of the Keep was substantially rebuilt whilst the south incorporates much of the earlier structure. The sheer mass of the walls was much reduced by the honeycomb of passages, closets and stairs cleverly built into them, and by the insertion of large 'gothic' windows. Plans of the 1714 survey were rediscovered shortly before reconstruction was completed so had little impact on the overall design.

But, the romance of the reality lies in the remarkable fulfilment of a dream held by two men to restore Eilean Donan to its former glory. lt has been done nowhere else. Stone was quarried locally, dragged to the shore by horses and taken to the island by boat. Finished wood and ironwork came by train from Edinburgh to Kyle of Lochalsh, by road to Ardelve and by boat to the island. The thick green roof slates came from Caithness.The project survived through the First World War, it tost a quarter of a million pounds, and was formally completed in July 1932.
At the heart of MacRae country the castle still stands as a remarkable monument to its time.




THE COURTYARD

The main entrance to the present castle is through the arched portcullis gate. Over the arch an inscription in Gaelic reads 'For as long as there is a MacRae inside there will never be a Fraser outside'; a reference to the ancient association between the two clans established before the MacRaes moved west to Kintail in the mid l4th century from the very different mountains of Easter Ross.
Once through the gatehouse and into the courtyard proper the sheer wall of the Keep Ilses high above the rest of the castle. Here the principle of the old defences was retained when the castle was rebuilt, with the Keep providing the final bastion against attackers if the outer defences, the curtain wall and portcullis, were breached.
During the rebuilding of the castle between 1912 and 1932 the original level of the courtyard was lowered to expose the bare bedrock of the island.

THE BILLETING ROOM

Climb the steps to the Keep door. This is the only direct entrance to this fortified tower. lt is believed that in earlier phases of the castle's history there was no door at this level and access to the Keep could only be gained via a ladder directly into die Great Hall an the floor above.
In the 1920s the need was to rebuild the castle as a summer home for the MacRae-Gilstrap family and so access is now somewhat more easily gained directly into The Billeting Room. The single barrel vault which spans this space was built by Farquhar MacRae and is some 760 mm (2' 6") deep. The walls are up to 4.26m (14') thick. lt is thought that in earlier times this would have been the billet for off-duty soldiers. Today it contains a fascinating collection of castle, MacRae family and local history artefacts including a fine painting of Farquhar MacRae himself.
Much of the furniture is Chippendale. The settees graced the Bath Assembly Rooms in the 1760s and the gaming table is particularly fine. Also of note is the Sheraton lady's writing desk. In contrasting style is the vernacular stick spinning chair which was made locally in Kintail, the spinning wheel and the wool winding machine which once turned 124 times to precisely measure a skein of wool.

Look for the cannonballs which were fired at the castle by Government frigates during the bombardment of 1719. Had the 1703 tea set of Liverpool china been here at that time it would not have survived the destruction. Instead, it came as part of the dowry of Isabel, daughter of MacLeod of Raasay, when she married into the MacRae family, but only after it had been used by James Boswell and Dr Johnson during their tour of the Hebrides in 1773. The tea was drunk from the saucers after being tipped from the handleless cups.
Here too are items which remind us of a violent past; the duelling pistols, dirks (short Baggers) and powder horns. Finally, do not miss the very unusual painting, `Night Before the Battle', which depicts the men of Kintail dancing an the Iead roof of Eilean Donan Castle before the battle of Sheriffmuir in November 1715; a battle which was to leave the MacRaes with heavy losses and 58 widows in Kintail.

THE BANQUETING HALL

Ascend from the Billeting Room to the grandest space 'in the castle. Known as either the Great Hall or Banqueting Hall this finely proportioned room owes some of its characteristics to the Halls found in medieval castles and others to the relative comfort demanded by a more modern age. The massive walls and vast fireplace are familiar features of Scotland's fortified buildings, the gothic, leaded windows owe more to Victorian romanticism. The substantial timber ceiling beams are of Douglas Fir and were shipped from British Columbia during the restoration of Eilean Donan; a gift from the Macraes of Canada.

There is no chapel in the castle but the Piper's Gallery could be used both as a pulpit and place from which the chief's piper could play. lt is still possible to be married in this room and the recessed font enables baptisms to be performed. Below the Gallery stands an oval table thought to have come from one of Admiral Nelson's ships.

Today, the Great Hall contains fine furniture including pieces of Sheraton and Chippendale and one of the finest collections of Windsor Chairs in the country. The table centrepiece is a rare cutlery vase and several cutlery boxes are displayed on the Sideboards. Portraits of both Lieutenant Colonel and Mrs John MacRaeGilstrap, who rebuilt Eilean Donan, hang here with other family portraits. Here also are family items including watches, rings, seals and miniatures.
A number of Jacobite artefacts are on display here.The dirk (short dagger) on the wall was used at the battle of Sheriffmuir in 1715 by John MacRae of Conchra, one of the 'four Johns of Scotland'; he died in the battle.A lock of 'Bonnie Prince Charlie's pair' is now associated with a letter from the Prince written to the clan chiefs in August 1745 exhorting them to support him at the raising of his standard in Glenfinnan. See also the broadsword of John Macrae, the bard of Kintail, whose poetry is still remembered throughout Gaeldom. He fought at Culloden and in the American War of Independence. His sword was returned to Eilean Donan from New Zealand by his family in 1992.

There are several other objects of interest in the Great Hall. The famous Raasay Punch Bowl from which Dr Johnson drank in 1773, drinking cups made from cannonballs and vases hollowed from thick ivy stems taken from the castle walls are but a few of them.
Don't worry if you feel as though you are being watched. You probably are! Try to find the slanting slits through which untrustworthy guests could be observed without any apparent lack of hospitality. An enjoyable feature in the present castle but once a necessary precaution.



THE BEDROOMS

The third floor of the castle was only opened to the public in 1995 after the bedrooms were renovated. The tartan fabric carpets are a MacRae sett woven by the company of a great grandson of the family. Note the original service bells and the carved door listing the Constables of the Castle.

THE KITCHEN RANGE

The new Eilean Donan Castle was completed in July p932. Here you can experience the sights, sounds and smells of the kitchen as it might have been...
The kitchen was built as part of the restoration of the castle between 1912 and 1932 and was in keeping with the rest of the castle's style. A generator was installed in 1928 which was used almost exclusively for lighting. There was no fridge or electric cooker and all the cooking was done an the Carron Wonworks range which burned coal.

STARRING EILEAN DONAN

Eilean Donan and its magnificent setting draw visitors from the world over, but for those who have not experienced the magical reality they have almost certainly seen the castle in a myriad of guises an the big and small screens. Most famous, perhaps, is the castle's role in Highlanderstarring Sean Connery and Christopher Lambert. But there is also Loch Ness with Ted Danson, The Master of Ballantrae with Errol Flynn or perhaps you have seen it in a Bond movie? And nationally, for how long will we remember the Avengers, the BBC balloon drifting over the island or the Clothes Show wedding of the year in 1998? Eilean Donan will undoubtedly continue in her starring role.



HISTORY & TALES

One tale, about the origin of the castle, teils of the son of a Matheson chief who could understand the language of birds because his first drink had been from the skull of a raven. When he told his father that the birds said that he would one day wait upon his son like a servant, the boy was banished. After years of travel and adventure he returned home with a fortune made through using his magical powern. No one recognised him but he was offered hospitality by his father who fulfilled the prophesy by serving him a meal. lt is said that the son soon found favour with the king, Alexander II, who commissioned him to build Eilean Donan to protect his subjects against the Vikings.

By the later 13th century the castle was held by Kenneth MacKenzie and in turn his successors. After 1362 the Clan MacRae came to Kintail from the Beauly Firth where they had given protection to the Clan Fraser. Here they soon became 'bodyguards' to the MacKenzie chiefs and were known as the"MacKenzies' Coat of Mail", so beginning a long association between the clans.

Despite disputes the MacKenzies held Eilean Donan almost constantly until the 16th century. In 1504 Alexander Gordon, Earl of Huntlyattempted to take it an behalf of James IV 'for the daunting of the kies' but bis garrison was quickly defeated.

As protectors of the MacKenzies, the MacRaes first became Constables of Eilean Donan in 1511 with considerable control over the surrounding area. A feud between the MacKenzies and the McLeods of Dunvegan, over the disputed claims of one Donald Gorm MacDonald to the title of Lord of the Isles, came to a head in 1539. When MacDonald sailed his 50 galleys to Eilean Donan there were only two men in the castle; the Constable John Dubh Matheson and a watchman. Realising their plight, another man Duncan MacRae went to their aid. The MacDonalds besieged the castle and soon Duncan had only one arrow left. He waited, drew his bow, and bit Donald Gorm in the foot. Impatiently Donald pulled out the barbed arrow but severed an artery. After he died bis men returned to set Eire to the castle but with little success.

By 1618 the Reverend Mr Farquhar was Constable of Eilean Donan. He lived there in an 'opulent and flourishing condition much given to hospitality and charity'. When Colin, Earl of Seaforthvisited he came with a retinue of 'never less than three, and sometimes 500, men'. During such visits Farquhar was bound to provide the first two meals and offer hospitality to the many local chiefs who also came to fegst and drink in the halls of the castle. When the Constable was expelled from his post in 1651 he said he was 'well pleased to be rid of the island, because it was a bad habitation for a man of his age and corpulence'!

The Scottish Parliament had garrisoned the castle in 1651 but the soldiers suffered so badly at the hands of the local people that they soon withdrew. Three years later, when General Monk, Cromwell's Lieutenant, brought an army to Kintaii it took severe revenge on the area, plundering, burning and reiving.

In 1715 the Jacobites met at Eilean Donan on their way to fight at Sheriffmuir. Four years later the Ca st le was destroyed and left in ruins for nearly 200 years.



THE CLAN MACRAE

The memorial is a replica of the seat erected in memory of Lt Col John McCrae at Wimereuxcemetery in Flanders.
The war memorial at Eilean Donan Castle is highly unusual as it commemorates all those members of one dm, the MacRaes, who diel in the First World War. Includecl among the columns of names is that of Lieutenant Colonel John McCrae, the Canadian doctor who penned the lines which now universally symbolise the First World War:

In Flanders fields the poppies blow Between the crosses, row an row...

The present Clan MacRae society was re-formed in Scotland in 1990. lt has strong links with branches of the clan in North America,Australia and New Zealand.

We went to the inspection of the castle further to the bridge to the Isle of Sky leads

From the place Kyleakin we had a nice look at the castle Moil

This castle, overlooking the Kyle, was the base for Clan Mackinnon from the late 15th century until it was abandoned early in the 17th century. At that time the castle was known as Dun Acainn.

weather: at first rain, later sunny

161 miles